Top 10 Hikes (so far...)

I was recently diagnosed as having a bone spur on my left heel. It’s not super serious, but it does limit my ability to go on strenuous hikes, especially those that involve significant elevation change. It’s something that I could fix with surgery, but the recovery involves being in a boot, mostly immobile, for 6-8 weeks.

Ugh. For now, I am living with it by applying some rudimentary physical therapy.

The bone spur and the simple fact that I am getting older has sharpened my realization that perhaps my most aggressive hikes are now behind me. Maybe I have already hit the highlights. Don’t get me wrong, I will continue to hike. But realistically most trails I tackle going forward are limited to a few miles and minimal elevation change. It’s one of the reasons I have recently leaned into mountain biking, which doesn’t aggravate my heel as much.

Hiking has been a foundational element of my life for over 30 years. I really took it up right after college, combining it with my other primary hobby, photography. Over the decades I have been blessed to live in and travel to many wonderful places, hiking many amazing trails.

So why not share a list of some of my favorites?

For this list, the criteria simply involves hikes that had an impact on me. They may of been remote, close by, short or long. But all were spectacular in some way - aesthetically, physically, or even spiritually.

So in no particular order, I offer my list of Top 10 hikes I have experienced in my life:

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, Texas.

• Enchanted Rock was the beginning for me. Soon after graduating college I took a trip out to the Texas Hill Country and was immediately hooked by this granite dome. There is no place in Texas quite like it - Enchanted Rock is geology, topology, ecology, and drama all wrapped in one package. There is not actual specific hike I have in mind to recommend - just wander around, scramble the boulders, trek to the top, climb nearby Turkey Peak. Views of the extend in all directions, and it is a place I return to again and again for connection to the natural world.

The Boy Scout Tree Trail, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, California.

• I have written about the Boy Scout Tree Trail before, and it has quickly become one of my go-to hiking recommendations for anyone who wants to see the Redwoods. Relatively accessible and imminently dramatic, the trail winds through the coastal redwood forest amongst some of the largest trees in the world. I have hiked this trail at least three times and never tire of its fern covered ridges and cathedral like canopies. Funny, I don’t think I have ever completed the hike and seen the namesake “Boy Scout Tree”, but I don’t feel disappointed. Every step on the trail is holy.

Heather - Maple Pass Loop, North Cascades National Park, Washington.

• I don’t think any hike has given me such joy as this loop in the north corner of Washington state. I accessed it at the peak of wildflower season, and essentially had the mountains to myself for 5-6 hours. It was a kaleidoscope of alpine drama, with clouds and weather shifting constantly to change the tenor of the hike. One moment you feel like you’ve stepped into Mordor, the next the Sound of Music, then Cliffhanger. The loop lifts you above the clouds and lifts your spirits. For weeks after this hike, I was in a blissful state of gratitude.

Eagle Creek, Columbia River Gorge, Oregon.

• Less than an hour from Portland, Oregon, Eagle Creek is perhaps the king of hikes in the Columbia River Gorge. I’ve written about this before - how the area was tortured and damaged by wildfire. Like most hikes in the Gorge, it’s punctuated by amazing waterfalls. But the true beauty comes from the cliffside shelf trail, dropping off 200 feet to your side, the old growth Douglas Firs perched on the rock ledges, and bridges and chasms around every turn. If you trek long enough you can even walk under a waterfall, and drift up into the mid-elevation forests around Mount Hood.

Independence Pass/Norway Pass Loop, Mount Saint Helens, Washington.

• I don’t think you can actually hike this loop anymore, as landslides and erosion have closed some of the connector trails. But when I explored this area in the early 2000’s, it blew me away. Mount Saint Helens is an under appreciated hiking destination - full of caves, old growth forests, rivers, spectacular views, and the emotionally charged knowledge that you are in a place of relatively recent disaster. The Volcano teaches you about power and life, and hiking to a view of Spirit Lake in the midst of trees cut in half will force you to look at Mother Nature in a whole new light.

Sunset Bay to Shore Acres, Oregon Coast.

• I’ve sung the praises of Sunset Bay State Park before, and feel the need to again highlight this unique area. There are a series of trails that weave together three parks - Sunset Bay, Shore Acres, and Cape Arago. The best portions bring you to dramatic cliffside views where you are quite likely to see whales, sea lions, or seals. Honestly, this hike is really just a catch-all for any Oregon Coast Trail. I just had to pick one. But any time you are in Oregon on the edge of the Pacific - Ecola State Park, Bandon, Cape Perpetua, Heceta Head, and more - hiking along the beaches and cliffs never disappoints.

Obstruction Point, Olympic National Park, Washington.

• Several trails peel off from the parking lot at Obstruction Point, high up on the ridges of the Olympic Mountains. You feel like a giant trekking along the alpine tundra, views extending in every direction. Time your visit well, and you’ll be treated with cool maritime breezes, chirping marmots, and fragrant fields of wildflowers. The area is only accessible for a few weeks in the summer and early Fall, making time there especially poignant and memorable.

The Grandview Trail, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona.

• This hike nearly killed me, but it also represents an important life milestone. In the middle of the Grand Canyon, the Grandview Trail descends from the southern rim, dropping you quickly onto the Horseshoe Mesa plateau, amongst sandstone cathedrals and desert vistas. There, I proposed to the good and patient Caroline (Official and Exclusive Spouse of The CD Dispatch) and we decided to get married. But then we had to hike 2,500 feet back up to the canyon rim. Not being used to the altitude and bordering on dehydration, I barely made it up. Thus, the hike remains etched in family lore. That night, we were blessed to sit at the edge of the canyon rim enjoying dinner at the lodge, as the Hale-Bopp comet punctuated the starry sky.

Base Torres Trail, Torres del Paine National Park, Chile.

• Chilean Patagonia cannot be topped in terms of otherworldly landscapes, and Torres del Paine National Park is the centerpiece. We spent a few days there absorbing the windswept prairie, the glaciers, lakes - always set against the rawest mountains you will ever find. But the highlight was our day on the Base Torres Trail, starting right from our hotel. Leaving before dawn and blessed with a mild, sunny day, we trekked through Hobbit-like forests and along glacial-fed streams. Finally, after an hour climbing through a boulder-field, we arrived at the most sublime granite amphitheater, looking at the spires rising thousands of feet above.

Jefferson Park Ridge, Oregon.

• Oregon is blessed with many amazing volcanoes, but Mount Jefferson, the state’s 2nd highest peak, always seemed to me the most aesthetically pleasing. This hike, approaching from the north along the Pacific Crest Trail, is an adventure before you even begin walking. The trailhead is generally accessible by car, but it’s a long drive from anywhere and the last mile or two gives you heart palpitations. Once on the trail, it’s moderate path with easily manageable elevation gain. You stroll through a playground of wildflowers, sweeping views, snowfields, rock gardens, and alpine glory. Then, after a fun scramble to the ridge top, you are presented with what many call the best view in Oregon, looking down on glacial lakes and the cool green fields of Jefferson Park.

That’s the end…for now. I have some minor hikes planned that I hope will join this list, and will report back diligently. But in the meantime, if you find yourself near one of these locations, take time to make your own memories along these trails.

Or share with me, what are some of your favorite hikes?

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Disclaimer:

All content and opinions are solely those of the author (Jack), and not representative of my employer, former employers, clients, anyone in Congress, my family, former college roommates, Baptists, the good citizens of Colorado, or my dog Mabel.